Archive for April 2013

Investigation into outerwear

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IND
follow links on stream on how to translate concept and develop - Consider all of the different types of capes and jackets/whatever you want to focus on, the variation of cut, style, materials can change the purpose of the garment - where it's worn and how its used. Scale, fit and quality.
E.g leather jacker, bomber, cropped.
How many styles can you extract and what's the effect of that? 
E.g biker jacket = harder aesthetic, underground feel. 


Select one of the following to develop into your new line: Tailoring and jackets, knitwear and jersey and outerwear.
Blazers, jackets, anorak, cape etc.
Different climates and needs that customer may have?

Put a board together for your customer, their needs, are they a broad demographic? Think about how you can communicate to this market? Does your original concept board need to shift? 

Look at style.com for current trends also maybe go to global and select fabric to aid designs?

Begin designing from my collection and see how I can translate the garments to more of a winter style. E.g maybe the dress is in wool? Or the skirts definitely could relate to capes.
Dresses looks kind of kimono like - They're all one piece? 
The finishing? The angular dress can translate to a jacket with an angular zip closure and maybe in a felted fabric? 

Layers, underwear and outerwear.
Fabrics
Finishings
Side view and how does the back relate to the front




 Quite like the hood on cape #4.


Quite like the collar on cape #1. The high neck on 2 & 4 and the angular line on 5.

I really like how this cape looks more geometric because of the contrasting fabrics - a good idea to bring into my collection to represent the juxtaposition of Tauranga and Wellington?


Image source - http://www.bvonstyle.com/2010/11/01/winter-coats-under-150/
- http://lamarinieremagazine.com/2010/11/03/tendance-hiver-2011-cape-allure-medievale/
-  http://www.hsn.com/products/iman-platinum-rich-pelted-faux-mink-hooded-zip-cape/6810036
- http://thestylespy.com/2011/11/cape-town/
- http://www.yankodesign.com/2007/07/20/courtship-jacket-looks-like-batmans-cousin/
- www.thefader.com/2011/12/21/william-okpo-make-a-cape/



Trend Report/Forecasting 2014

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Lots of knitwear trends are emerging when searching for 2014 winter trends

Above image source - http://www.trendstore.dk/close-up-stylebook-knit-aw-13-14.html
I really like the cape style of this jumper above.
Above image source - http://www.trendstore.dk/close-up-stylebook-knit-aw-13-14.html
I think that the bold pattern is great, because my collection already has a bold pattern so this will be great to continue thorough.

Above image source - http://pinterest.com/pin/33565959693241678/
I quite like the flap/layer at the top of this garment which is highlighted by the circles. It adds a cool touch and extra warmth + protection from the elements.

Above image source - http://pinterest.com/pin/33565959693241674/
I'm really into capes and think this is a cool, unique pattern/design.
Really like the panel in the top of this jacket.
 Like the layered effect of this big gown/cape.
 Quite noice Kimono effect going on, my dresses can translate to this shape.

 Really like how this cape falls, and is simplistic yet very interestingly patterned.
Above image source - http://en.vogue.fr/defiles/fall-winter-2013-2014-paris-alexander-mcqueen/7451/diaporama/show-369/10736/pag
These outfits are from Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 2013/14 collection.

Above image source - http://en.vogue.fr/defiles/pre-collections-1/saisons/fall-winter-2013-2014/64
Giambattista Valli pre collection Fall/Winter 2013/14
I really like the strong structure in this coat, aswell as the angular collar/neckline.




Evaluation of assignment 1 collection / Translation of concept evaluation

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Key elements within my collection

#1 - STRUCTURE
Structure is quite strong and is seen throughout the collection. It is mostly seen in the shoulder areas and the skirts and gives the collection a very strong, bold presence.

#2 - ANGULAR LINES
These are quite important as they represent Wellington throughout the collection, playing up the angular buildings, and concrete structured environment of this city, as appose to the natural environment of Tauranga, surrounded by nature and organic flowing lines.
These angular lines are quite edgy, and give off a cool vibe which I would like to push and develop further.

#3 - LAYERING
Layering is essential because it provides interest and makes the pieces more unique, while representating the layers of buildings and concrete in Wellington.
It will become increasingly important as I translate my collection through to the Autumn/Winter 2014 collection and begin to design garments that will suit this season.

#4 - PATTERN
The pattern that is featured throughout is very important because it adds a very unique quality to the line, and it also allows it to be cohesive and recognisable as a collection. It definitely adds a lot of interest and edge to the pieces.

#5 - COLOUR PALETTE/COMPOSITION
The bright tropical colour palette is great because it really pushes my idea of the juxtaposition of my two homes, in that it places the bright tropical colours of Tauranga, ontop of the angular lines of Wellington.
It makes the collection feel very vibrant and fun, and also a bit risky?
Having the colours be so acidic and bright is also very eye cathching and with them almost clashing makes for a very interesting collection not for the faint hearted.


What elements I want to develop throughout the new designs:

Structure
Angular lines
Layering
Pattern
Colour

What elements I want to add into the collection:
Snoods
Capes
Jackets
A strong focus on outerwear


TRANSLATION OF CONCEPT EVALUATION

Summary of concept: The juxtaposition of my home in Tauranga and my home in Wellington. Tauranga being very tropical, surrounded by nature and organic lines, and Wellington being very structured, man made and concrete.





Was the message clear in the concept board and design work? I think the concept board could have been cleared, but I did receive good feedback that everything was cohesive after I had explained my key idea to the class. I do however think that my designs and final line up was quite clear of my message/theme and that the garments were all very cohesive, but I should have began making earlier, along with using fabrics to aid my design work and push me in the right direction.

What was I trying to say/express/represent? I was trying to represent how different my two homes are, by combining elements of each environment within the garment and overall aesthetic.

Can I say it better? Through the use of a lot more different fabrics, more types of garments, and a more in depth study/investigation into the production/construction of the garments and how they will be fastened, shaped etc.
I also need to design more pieces and layers, and look more in depth into back and side views.

I think my signature could be quite unique, bold designs? Not minimalistic and not very 'safe'?
I think that the elements in the drawings and rendering of the line up play a big part in enhancing the signature and message throughout the collection.



Challenges when designing for a bigger volume market - Class notes

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 - Less complex design lines / fit e.g Jacket at Zambezi = size 8 - 12
Jacket at Glassons = 6 - 18
Labels have a certain image that they want to adhere to, therefor they only stock certain sizes to withhold their reputation and whom can wear it and therefor be seen wearing it.
Brand image, the customer they want to adhere to.
Fitmodel - a model employed whom the designer makes all of the garments to fit perfectly - this is their target market.

 - Detailing

 - Production costs

- Muse / Template - Who is this customer? Who is this person? Indicate this with how you draw, what are their proportions? What scale will you use? Stylised? Age group? A story around your person and some demographic info to help you design collection for.

- Tailored garments, rules:
guidelines
sleeve lengths
side seams
not hanging off the shoulders
padding in the chest buckling - also what the padding is made of, e.g horse hair, foam substitutes.

 - Are you doing something intentionally? Be aware that if you do something, it may give a certain effect to the garments. E.g rolled up sleeve gives an 80's feel.
Every decision you make changes how the garment is viewed.
The length of the sleeve, the cut of the sleeve etc

 - Draped garments
Zero or minimal waste
Broader appeal to a wider market
Drape; effected highly by the quality of the fabric

The hanger appeal  - this is how consumers mostly look at a garment, something that designers think of a lot! As often customers can get turned off a garment simply by the hanger appeal.

Test the behaviour of your fabric and also the content of the fabric - Need something to engage with and test.
How would it react to tailoring? Consider weight, structure/rigidness. 


IND
follow links on stream on how to translate concept and develop - Consider all of the different types of capes and jackets/whatever you want to focus on, the variation of cut, style, materials can change the purpose of the garment - where it's worn and how its used. Scale, fit and quality.
E.g leather jacker, bomber, cropped.
How many styles can you extract and what's the effect of that? 
E.g biker jacket = harder aesthetic, underground feel. 


Select one of the following to develop into your new line: Tailoring and jackets, knitwear and jersey and outerwear.
Blazers, jackets, anorak, cape etc.
Different climates and needs that customer may have?

Put a board together for your customer, their needs, are they a broad demographic? Think about how you can communicate to this market? Does your original concept board need to shift? 

Look at style.com for current trends also maybe go to global and select fabric to aid designs?

Begin designing from my collection and see how I can translate the garments to more of a winter style. E.g maybe the dress is in wool? Or the skirts definitely could relate to capes.
Dresses looks kind of kimono like - They're all one piece? 
The finishing? The angular dress can translate to a jacket with an angular zip closure and maybe in a felted fabric? 

Layers, underwear and outerwear.
Fabrics
Finishings
Side view and how does the back relate to the front

Wednesday 24th class notes

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You can choose any target market, but have research and have everything at your fingertips to prove it and backup what you're saying.
E.g area 51, witchery etc need to have a certain market

Macro is what're you telling or saying about your collection. Visual image that connects with this.
Is this something you create?

Take photographs, draw etc to make the image that you need.

Mood: visual image communication AS ABOVE

Aesthetic concept - how do you translate the above into stylistic product design.
What kind of colour, what does it look like, what response do you want that to have.



Chosen Foucs Market

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I have chosen to focus my collection on option b) the Mid diffusion Market collection for Autumn/Winter 2014.

Initial Market Research

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INITIAL MARKET RESEARCH

High end
Karen Walker;

Image source: http://shop.karenwalker.com/products/awe-inspiring-coat

 Image source: Myself

Assortment of merchandise: Items were hung nicely on racks by quality, wooden hangers, often with just 2 or 3 different sizes. Jewellery in a glass cabinet in the middle of the store/around the till.
Variation of merchandise and products available: There was a variation of styles of clothing, as well as nail-polish, perfume, jewellery, shoes and handbags. All items womans only.
Price point:
The caramel jacket pictured above was priced at $1,015.00. The navy blazer was $935.00.

Layout and atmosphere of store: Store was very tidy and had no clutter or mess, it was also very spacious. Soft, background music was playing, the store was warm and had a warm feel to it - mostly due to the lighting. It was very calm and felt very sophisticated and just a nice place to be.
Customer service:
We were greeted after a few seconds in the store.
Amount of customers: It was quite busy at the time when we were leaving, around 10-15 people in total which made it somewhat crowded compared to our first impression of spaciousness.

Country of origin on label(how many different countries identifiable):
consider how this affects the product development process, cost, quality, lead time, travel /pollution
The topshop label says made in Bulgaria, Karen Walker is designed in NZ.

Garment practicality and functionality:
The caramel jacket was very warm, with a quality mid-heavy weight flannel/felt fabric, it didn't have any pockets or a hood which are often key points of jackets. The navy blazer had 'fake' pockets. Along with the topshop jacket having no pockets or hood, it also didn't fit very well, and being a size 6 I thought it would fit me nicer. It wasn't a very warm fabric but had a nice quality embroidered fabric.


How important are current trends(at what level is this apparent): Trends are an influence, but at the same time Karen Walker seems to try to make the trends as appose to copy them as such, the label has it's own aesthetic which it sticks to. Range of sizes & colours offered in same styles: Very minimal colour palette, garments not offered in numerous different colours, only 3 different garments on the racks, so not many duplicates either.
Addit
io
nal: Nice atmosphere, warm, spacious store. Clothing commands respect with layout and 'eliteness' influenced by the overall atmosphere.

 



Good as Gold

Image source: http://www.distantroom.com.au/handsom-wool-over-coat



Image source: Myself

Assortment of merchandise: Nicely laidout store, jewellery in the center of the room in a glass cabinet and clothing around the outside of the store. 
Variation of merchandise and products available: Both men and woman's clothing, handbags and shoes. Only about 3 different sizes of each garment hung on the racks.
Price point: A simple silver necklace with silver skull on the end was $405. The jacket pictured above is $295.
Layout and atmosphere of the store: Store was tidy and clutter free, it was quite open and light and 
Customer service: Were greeted by staff as soon as the store was entered.
Amount of customers: Not a very busy store at all, only around 5 other customers. 

Country of origin on label: 'Handmade in china'


Garment functionality and praticality: Jacket is of a heavy weight and has bound seams, with different linings and textures of fabrics - is of a very nice quality and feel.
Other garments in the store had extra panels for warmth and aesthetic.
How important are current trends(at what level is that apparent): Current trends were important but they have been specific in which trends they take into their store, has a laid back, effortless aesthetic.
Range of sizes and colours offered in same styles: Only around 3 of each garment, so just one item in each size was in store, and not many garments had different colour choices available. 

Additional:


Superette


Image source: http://www.superette.co.nz/odette-knit-jumper-wisteria-32211.html
Image source: Myself
Image source: http://www.sassandbide.com/eboutique/dresses/short/free-styling.html


Image source: Myself

Assortment of merchandise: Merchandise is displayed around the outside of the store, as well as in the center in a glass cabinet. 
Variation of merchandise and products available: Both men and woman's clothing, shoes, candles, jewellery and some lipbalms available. 
Price point: The Maurie & Eve jumper above is $229.00. The sass & bide dress$860.00
Layout and atmosphere of the store: Nicely laid-out store, jewellery in the center of the room in a glass cabinet  surrounding the tills and clothing around the outside of the store. 
Customer service: Customer service was okay.
Amount of customers: No other customers were in store.

Country of origin on label:


Garment functionality and practicality: The jumper is not very practical to be worn as modelled, it has cut outs in mesh for aesthetic purposes, but this is not functional to keep the wearer warm. The dress is piratical and is also of a very high quality, with the metal being sewn on carefully and is of good quality.
How important are current trends(at what level is that apparent): Current trends are influential, but these brands try to make trends as appose to follow them to a T. 
Range of sizes and colours offered in same styles: Garments were hung in sets of 3, so only one of each size was displayed. Garments weren't generally available in many colours, with the exception of shoes being available in a few different colours.  




Summary of high end stores: They were all generally laid out the same, with the jewellery in a glass cabinet, the clothing hanging around the outsize of the store on nice quality coat hangers, garments were usually in sets of 3-4 and generally didn't have the option of many alternative colours.
Stores were tidy and clutter free, staff were friendly and atmosphere all felt very high end/elite. 


Middle Market

Glassons

Image source- http://www.glassons.com/product/Contrast-Sleeve-Coat?i=CL18803WOL&v=22853899

Image source: Myself


Assortment of merchandise: Merchandise is displayed around the outside of the store, as well as in the middle, the center, anywhere that they could fit the clothes they had them placed, whether that be folded on tables or hanging etc. Racks were very crowded and packed full of clothes. 
Variation of merchandise and products available: Clothing, shoes, jewellery, bags, 
Price point: The products in this store were priced between $20-150.00. The black and grey jacket pictured above was $150, which I think is very expensive for something from this store. 
Layout and atmosphere of the store: Clothes were folded, hung and placed everywhere in the store. They were focused on getting all of the product on display. Jewellery and bags were hanging up in multiples as appose to singular.
Customer service: The customer service wasn't very good, they weren't as concerned with the customer.
Amount of customers: There were plenty of people coming in and out of the store. 

Country of origin on label: Made in china

Garment functionality and practicality: Garments were practical but were not tailored very nicely to fit the body, they were more boxy and simple. The black and grey jacket pictured above did not fit my body at all, it had no shape and was very boxy and also had fake pockets on the front, so would not be functional for winter wear as it would not keep your hands warm.

How important are current trends(at what level is that apparent): Trends are very important in this store, they are constantly trying to keep up with the trends and this is reflected in the high volume of stock.

Range of sizes and colours offered in same styles: The garments in this store are a lot of basics, they are mostly very similar cuts and styles with just different colours and prints and applied designs, they also have a lot of different sizes in each colour, pattern and print. 


Cotton On



Assortment of merchandise: Merchandise is displayed around the outside of the store, as well as in the the center, basically anywhere that they could fit the clothes they had them placed - whether that be folded on tables or hanging etc. Racks were very crowded and packed full of clothing and shoes.
Variation of merchandise and products available: Clothing, shoes, jewellery and bags were all on offer in multiples. 
Price point: Cotton on is a bit cheaper than glassons, with the jacket pictured above being___
Layout and atmosphere of the store: The store was VERY very loud, the music was pumping to the point that you couldn't have a normal conversation without yelling at the person next to you - it was like you were in a club.
Customer service: I did not have any contact with the staff members the whole time while in store.
Amount of customers: There were not many customers in store, it was quite empty.

Country of origin on label:


Garment functionality and practicality: Garments were practical but were not tailored, they were very boxy and had no shape. The fabrics were thin and flimsy, and were of a very low quality, which I would expect to be out of shape after one wear. There were not many winter garments, and was a very small choice of jackets, I could only find 1 or 2.
The jacket above was a size small but did definitely not fit me at all, it was quite large

How important are current trends(at what level is that apparent): Trends are very important in this store, they are constantly trying to keep up with the trends and this is reflected in the high volume of stock and the very low quality of clothing and construction.

Range of sizes and colours offered in same styles: There are many many different garments in store, but there was not much variation in fabric - lots of cotton and simple designs and little to none hardware/metal.
The jacket above was offered in many different colours with about 10 of each colour on the racks.

Additional: As you can see in the image above of the sleeve, the quality wasn't very good and the lining a lot too big for the garment, causing it to hang out of the sleeve.


Summary of middle market stores:  These stores were both very similar, not much garment variation, quite bad customer service and both had a lot of stock for such a small amount of space. These stores were not inviting and did not leave you wanting to go back again, or spend much time in there.






 

Assignment 1 work - Initial images

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Initial Influential Images
Tauranga;




 Wellington;